And so, here’s the log of our exploits in assembling and getting the ATOM 3D Printer Heated Bed going! Took around a day front to back to put things together (thought not all in one shot). Similar to the fixing up of the ATOM 3D Printer itself, it is worthwhile to take the heated bed assembly slower and leisurely, spending time to make sure that instructions are followed to the T and parts are all snugly and precisely put up against one another. 🙂
As is typical of ATOM’s products, it all came nicely in a box with the well documented bilingual (English and Chinese) instruction manual right on top.
Beneath the manual and the heating place pack, the other components were neatly packed and arranged in the box, with extra cushioning material (white) packed in the left side to avoid anything shifting during shipping.
Thumbing through the heated bed manual, one key aspect which stood out was how the parts which are to be removed are indicated in red, and the parts which are to be removed but subsequently replaced back in the machine are indicated in green. This was really useful in helping keep the workspace clear by quickly packing away parts which will not be in the final build.
Another hallmark of ATOM manuals here on the introductory pages of the manual – the hints and tips on how to assemble the heated bed parts well.
First off, we gotta remove the existing glass build plate to get access to the electronics (more on the part of fixing the heated bed wiring later). Haven’t seen the printer’s innards in a while so good to take some time to clean up a little bit of the dust build up in the ATOM 3D Printer. The glass bed will come back and top up the final step of the heated bed build so we can just shove it aside for now.
There’s quite a fair bit of shuffling of the internal wiring to be done for the ATOM heated bed addon so it’s best to be really really careful and detailed with the instructions at this juncture. If the electronics are the brains of the ATOM 3D Printer, then this is the equivalent of brain surgery – going slow and being sure of things goes a long long way!
With the first bits of the electronics sorted, one of the next key steps is the building of this triangle extension base part on which the new power supply unit will be affixed to. This will raise the overall height and weight of the ATOM 3d printer a tad. But it will also mean that the power brick is no longer needed, and the machine can simply be plugged directly into the main via the power cable.
These are the 3 corner pieces of expansion, very much a similar to the ones in the default ATOM 3D Printer build, albeit thinner.
This is the easy and fun part of the build so not too much going on here; but a quick shot of the completed triangle piece.
Taking out the power supply unit (PSU) out of the box and showing where it will eventually be mounted in the triangle frame.
Now. this next part is of utmost important to take note of – there is a red switch on the side of the PSU to set the input voltage. For Singapore, we run on 230V so it needs to be set accordingly to that. In Taiwan it is set to 115V, so if we plug that to the mains here without adjusting and turned it on, the PSU will get fried and have to be replaced!
With the cautionary note and voltage setting out of the way, next up is bolting of the attachment brackets for the PSU to the triangle base frame.
With those in place, the PSU can be bolted from the top to the triangle frame, which then becomes the new base layer for the ATOM 3D Printer. The step needed here is (simply and we are omitting some key steps here) then to remove the rubber based feet from the original frame, affix this new component and then put the the feet back to it.
And voila! The PSU and some of the new heated bed wiring are in place and ready to rock!
Next steps will be to get the remaining electronic components wired up with the heated bed element installed but since this is running long, that will be a post for ATOM 3D Printer Heated Bed Assembly Process (Part 2)