Building up the ATOM 2.0 3D Printer (Part 2)

[This is a continuation from Building up the ATOM 2.0 3D Printer (Part 1)]


From where we left off last with the frame, it was time to fix in the stepper motors, remembering to keep the cable connectors pointed to one side.


With the complete frame and motors in place, the next step was to install the endstops for the ATOM. This is a little finicky due to the small parts and worthwhile to go slow and keep things all aligned and edged up tightly against the top of the frame. Very important as these are the important sensors for calibration and zero-ing the printer.


Next up, the installation of the rails, all while taking care not to let the carriage slide off the rails or else it would be extremely difficult to put back on. This was another go slow and steady step, and using tape to temporarily hold the carriage in place while doing other bits helped.


Once the main body is more or less done, it came to fixing up the effector with the hot end, fans and all the associated wiring. Again, while working with small parts, it pays to go slow and sometimes along the process a little tape goes a long way in helping to hold things in place while you screw or tighten them. Or to just help hold bundles of wires together.


For fixing up of the control panel, power socket and the main board, flipping the machine on its side is necessary for installation of these parts. One thing also with the passing of the wiring through the Z extrusion rod on the back, you may find it easier to pass a length of wire through first to help pull the bundle of cables down.


With the board and fan already secured on the acrylic baseboard, next up is the fun journey of fixing in all the wiring from the disparate parts which have been assembled previously. The wires have all been helpfully and thoughtfully color-coded so there shouldn’t be too much problems in identifying which is which. Once again, it pays to be detailed with the positioning of where each of them plugs into the board as the pins are all very close to one another, and you wouldn’t want mistakes here (some of which could fry things up!) In the few cases where you need to insert the crimped ends of wires into the connectors, take special note of the direction as it only works and gives you a good connection if you do it right.


Once the electronics assembly are completed, last up would be the glass build plate which just sits on top of the base portion. Pretty easy to affix and you just want to make sure that things are all tightened up and the build plate for your ATOM does not shift around.


With the hardware assembly complete, it’s recommended to run some quick tests with PronterFace before grabbing the gcodes for test calibration prints to ensure that all is going well. For the prints, remember to put some UHU glue from the kit on the build plate first. As the print starts, watch that the first layer prints well and the rest should be fine.


This should be how the 30cm tower prints out if everything is calibrated well and aligned properly. There shouldn’t be any shifting in the layers vertically. Warping is normal though because it is a thin one-layer wall model. Turns out that the wavy surface is very consistent in our print too!


Here’s another calibration print to check the dimensional accuracy of the printer. It should be a 50mm side and seems like it’s pretty darn close!

Well, that wraps up our quick review on the assembly of the ATOM 2.0 3D Printer. Was a fun build which took us about 10 hours total which went pretty smoothly except for points where we dropped things but that’s just us. Needless to say, a larger work surface would be awesome for things

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