This is a continuation of the coverage of our journey in assembling the ATOM 3D Printer Heated Bed (part one can be found here).
With the removal of the power brick, the power cable connects directly to the PSU now and hence there is a new faceplate for all the power cable, the USB port and a new power switch. The original power switch from the front of the printer has been removed in an earlier stage.
To get all the components connecting up to the PSU, several pieces of colour coded wires have been provided to link things up. Here, as always, it is massively important to ensure that everything is connected up perfectly and in the exact positions.
Some wires are a little short but it does make sense as there is not much wiggle space too. It may be a little tight squeeze pulling some of them through so having a pair of pliers here does come in handy. Once the wirings are in place and double-checked, some cable tie work to keep things neat goes a long way too.
Next up seems to be one of the more tedious steps – wiring up and installing the solid state relay next to the mainboard. The tricky part here is the tight squeeze to position the SSR along one of the side extrusions. But with a little bit of jiggling, it should slide in somewhere nicely.
Reaching the end of the build process, we come to the actual mounting of the heating element and insulating foam to the triangle mounting plate, and then do the final wiring up.
To help hold down the original glass bed on top of the heating element, there are four clips which are held down by tension springs on the underside of the triangle mounting bed. The assembly of this is pretty simliar to how it works on the spring loaded adjustment bolt on the effector end stop.
Now, it may be a little tricky compressing the spring to get the nut and washer into place. So one trick we realized was to use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the spring down such that the washer and nut can be easily spun onto the bolt.
The insulating foam will then need to be stuck on the metal plate and it is key to note that the 3M sticker backing needed to be removed to allow it to adhere nicely. Unfortunately as can be see above here, we had forgotten to flip the entire assembly over first before doing this so you will see the bolts with the springs on them facing upward. Thankfully, it was more of a tedious and not too problematic issue to flip all these around.
And there we have this spanking new heated bed all assembled and ready to go on top of the printer!
The final few nylon T nuts were a little tricky to get into place and tightened up but with a little bit of jiggling, they should all fit and be holding the triangle metal plate tightly onto the base of the 3D printer.
And finally, it’s time to get things tested! Here we have simply loaded thing up while still on the old 2.0.6 firmware, but that should suffice for the testing as it already has heated bed support built into it. Going to the manual temperature settings (without printing from the SD Card) we set the new heated bed target temperature to 50C.
It did take a little while to get things warmed up to the target temperature but once it go to around that range, we testing across the entire glass buildplate to ensure the it has been heated up consistently. The precision of the target temperature of glass build plate was less of an issue as we don’t need it to be a zero-ed in as the nozzle temperature.
One last thing – do definitely remember to run the auto-levelling again for the machine as the entire glass build plate has now been lifted up quite a bit due to the heating element.
And there we have it – a heated bed printer ready to go for some other materials and which frees us from the need to use painters tape for adhesion! 🙂